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ART & STYLE MAGAZINE  
Paris inthe 20sFABULOUS TIMES, PLACES AND PEOPLE: PARIS IN THE 20s and 30s.

PLEASURE

Ecstasy had been invented in 1913, but had to wait another 75 years to become popular. Absinthe, a wormwood-based drink with hallucinogenic properties, was banned in 1915. Pernod replaced it as the arty drink of choice. Opium had its fans, including the writer Jean Cocteau. Modigliani liked a spliff, apparently. Women were beginning to gain more freedom and were more openly going out on the razz.

Paris in this era was probably the most liberal place in Europe. It certainly was a lot more easy-going than the United States, where prohibition was being enforced. There was also a more liberal attitude to sex. Homosexuality and promiscuity did not mean the instant rejection from society that it would mean in many parts of the World. Gertrude Stein's partner was the writer Alice B. Toklas and they had a fairly open relationship considering it was the 20s. In fact, if they dared, the 'modern' woman could smoke, drink and have all sorts of new fun. The beautiful American nicknamed 'Kiki de Montparnasse' was a model posing nude as well as clothed, for many famous artists of the day including Man Ray. She is an appropriate symbol of the free sexual attitudes and bohemian behaviour, but her activities would have been beyond shocking in the USA. Condoms had been issued to soldiers during the war to guard against venereal disease and brands such as Trojan were made publicly available by 1920. This meant that not only could married couples control the size of their families but young people could engage in more sex before marriage. Ernest Hemingway famously called Paris, "a moveable feast". Cafés, clubs, parties (big parties), think tanks, salons - no doubt about it, if you were an outsider looking for a good time, it was definitely the place to be.

STYLE



"The straight line is the medium of expression,'' said Coco Chanel. It was out with curves and in with the flat-breasted super-waif. Fashions began to be more practical and less restrictive with, joy of joys, short hair becoming quite the thing. Saved hours of shampooing time and looked good with a long cigarette holder.

At the start of World War I it seemed that French couture houses would stay closed for business until the cessation of fighting. However this was not the case and by 1917 there was talk of new lines, simple dresses such as the barrel dress and the dropping of 'false chic'. Women's fashions had responded to the fact that they had been working during WWI with a freedom of movement previously unheard of. There was even amusing advice on how women could reconcile their husbands returning from war to the new shorter hemlines. Coco Chanel was being picked out as early as 1914 for her elegant practicality and casual comfortableness. She made the over-decorated peacock fashions of the pre-war era seem hideously old fashioned and gaudy. It also must have been a natural response to the horrific war to be dressed more soberly. Chanel once said, "The first war made me. In 1919 I woke up famous". In the twenties, experimentation invaded all art forms including style. Silhouettes idealised the graphic lines found in art - many fashion designers had close connections with the avant-garde. However these straight lines and sleek bobbed hairstyles required slender figures and women responded with the 'slimming craze' of the time.