FABULOUS
TIMES, PLACES AND PEOPLE: PARIS IN THE 20s and 30s.PLEASURE
Ecstasy had been invented in 1913,
but had to wait another 75 years to become popular. Absinthe, a wormwood-based
drink with hallucinogenic properties, was banned in 1915. Pernod replaced it
as the arty drink of choice. Opium had its fans, including the writer Jean
Cocteau. Modigliani liked a spliff, apparently. Women were beginning to gain
more freedom and were more openly going out on the razz.
Paris in this era was probably the most
liberal place in Europe. It certainly was a lot more easy-going than the
United States, where prohibition was being enforced. There was also a more
liberal attitude to sex. Homosexuality and promiscuity did not mean the
instant rejection from society that it would mean in many parts of the World.
Gertrude Stein's partner was the writer Alice B. Toklas and they
had a fairly open relationship considering it was the 20s. In fact, if they
dared, the 'modern' woman could smoke, drink and have all sorts of new fun.
The beautiful American nicknamed 'Kiki de Montparnasse' was a model posing
nude as well as clothed, for many famous artists of the day including Man Ray.
She is an appropriate symbol of the free sexual attitudes and bohemian
behaviour, but her activities would have been beyond shocking in the USA.
Condoms had been issued to soldiers during the war to guard against venereal
disease and brands such as Trojan were made publicly available by 1920. This
meant that not only could married couples control the size of their families
but young people could engage in more sex before marriage. Ernest Hemingway
famously called Paris, "a moveable feast". Cafés, clubs, parties (big
parties), think tanks, salons - no doubt about it, if you were an outsider
looking for a good time, it was definitely the place to be.
STYLE

"The straight line is the medium of
expression,'' said Coco Chanel. It was out with curves and in with the
flat-breasted super-waif. Fashions began to be more practical and less
restrictive with, joy of joys, short hair becoming quite the thing. Saved
hours of shampooing time and looked good with a long cigarette holder.
At the start of World War I it seemed that French couture
houses would stay closed for business until the cessation of fighting.
However this was not the case and by 1917 there was talk of new lines,
simple dresses such as the barrel dress and the dropping of 'false chic'.
Women's fashions had responded to the fact that they had been working during
WWI with a freedom of movement previously unheard of. There was even amusing
advice on how women could reconcile their husbands returning from war to the
new shorter hemlines. Coco Chanel was being picked out as early as
1914 for her elegant practicality and casual comfortableness. She made the
over-decorated peacock fashions of the pre-war era seem hideously old
fashioned and gaudy. It also must have been a natural response to the
horrific war to be dressed more soberly. Chanel once said, "The first
war made me. In 1919 I woke up famous". In the twenties, experimentation
invaded all art forms including style. Silhouettes idealised the graphic
lines found in art - many fashion designers had close connections with the
avant-garde. However these straight lines and sleek bobbed hairstyles
required slender figures and women responded with the 'slimming craze' of
the time.